By Jennifer Bradley Franklin
Things at Destroyer, chef Jordan Kahn’s Nordic-style eatery in Culver City, are not always what they appear. The restaurant, which feels both avant-garde and approachable, serves up Los Angeles’ quintessential brunch dish—avocado toast—with a twist. The fruit is lightly seasoned, then sealed with virgin avocado oil and cooked sous vide. It’s then coated with puffed teff and dusted with powdered burnt onions, which mimics a skin. Served with toasted country bread, pickled sprouted rye berries, and roasted kale oil, it’s a menu hit for diners and on Instagram.
“I’ve always preferred the flavor of cooked avocado, but I’ve never been a big fan of the texture,” Kahn says. “This technique was a way to enhance the flavor without turning the avocado into mush. By choosing a high-fat-content avocado like Gwen or Haas, and gently cooking it sous vide over low heat, the flavor of the avocado becomes more pronounced, and the texture more soft and spreadable.”
Destroyer, 3578 Hayden Ave., Culver City, California, destroyer.la
This article originally appeared in the Fall/Winter 2019 issue of Sous-Vide magazine.
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